Narrow alleys on a hilltop 167 metres above the sea, Aleatico DOCG wine in the glasses, the iron mines of Monte Calamita, the beaches of Innamorata, Naregno and Pareti: Capoliveri is Elba's most authentic village.
Capoliveri stands on a promontory 167 metres above sea level, at the south-eastern tip of Elba Island. The municipality has about 3,952 inhabitants and covers ~40 km² around Monte Calamita (413 m), so called because it is rich in magnetite — a magnetic iron mineral said in ancient times to deflect the compasses of passing ships. The municipal area also includes the villages of Lacona, Naregno, Pareti, Morcone, Innamorata, Madonna delle Grazie and Lido di Capoliveri (Capo Stella).
The name Capoliveri derives from Caput Liberum: "Free Cape", suggesting that the village enjoyed special freedoms and charters compared to the feudal lords of the Principality of Piombino. The urban layout is typically medieval, with narrow, winding alleys climbing the hill, suspended arches between houses and sudden openings onto panoramic views stretching from Montecristo to Corsica. The church of San Michele Arcangelo — the town's patron — overlooks Piazza Matteotti, the social heart of the village.
On the eastern coast, Forte Focardo was built by the Spanish in 1678 to guard the Gulf of Mola; it now hosts the lighthouse and is still used by the Coast Guard. A short distance away stands the Sanctuary of Madonna delle Grazie, which preserves an icon attributed to the Sienese painter Sodoma (Giovanni Antonio Bazzi, early 16th century). The sanctuary is a place of pilgrimage and a historical stop for Elban sailors.
Capoliveri is the capital of Aleatico DOCG: a native Elban grape variety from which a sweet, raisin wine of ancient fame is produced, now protected by Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin. Among its traditional events, the Festa dell'Innamorata (14 July) — re-enactment of the tragic legend of Lorenzo and Maria, separated by 16th-century Saracen raids — and the Festa dell'Uva in early October, where the village's four districts (Fortezza, Forte Focardo, Torre, Castello) compete with choreographies and tastings.
A look at the most evocative places of the municipality: the medieval village, Innamorata and Naregno beaches, Forte Focardo, the Monte Calamita mines and the Aleatico vineyards.
Between the medieval old town, the coastal fortifications, the ancient iron mines of Calamita and the sanctuaries, Capoliveri offers much more than its beaches. Here are the must-see places and other points of interest.
The most scenic medieval village of Elba, perched at 167 metres on Monte Calamita. Narrow arched alleys, underpasses and stairs of medieval origin. Evening animated by taverns and artisan workshops. Capital of Aleatico DOCG wine.
Coastal fortification of 1678, wanted by the Spanish to close the Gulf of Mola entrance opposite Forte San Giacomo of Porto Azzurro. Star-shaped quadrangular plan reinforced by four corner bulwarks and two small bastions. Today houses the lighthouse.
On Monte Calamita, the Ginevro Mine is the longest underground gallery in Europe. Guided tours with experts allow you to delve into the mountain's bowels discovering how magnetite was extracted.
Promontory known for mining deposits since the ancient Etruscans. Protected area for mineralogical variety. Panoramic trails, MTB capital of Elba, breathtaking sea views.
The municipal area of Capoliveri is rich in beaches, from pebble coves at the foot of Monte Calamita to the sandy beaches of Lacona and Naregno. Here are the 21 most loved.
Lido di Capoliveri lies on the eastern shore of the Golfo Stella, on Elba's south coast, about 10 km from Portoferraio along the road to Porto Azzurro. It has roughly 400 metres of fine golden sand mixed with small smooth pebbles, closed at both ends by large rocks. The shallow, gently sloping seabed suits small children, and on clear days you can see Montecristo on the horizon.
Two signposted turn-offs leave the Portoferraio - Porto Azzurro road: the western one, a road of about 650 metres ending at a metered car park, and the eastern one, about 300 metres long, with a private paid car park. There are also some free parking areas, which fill up early in summer. From 3 July to 31 December 2026 an offshore work site for the pipeline of the Mola desalination plant is active in front of the beach, with a platform visible in the water; the authorities say it poses no danger.
The beach is sheltered from northerly winds: with tramontana (north wind), grecale (north-east wind), levante (east wind) and mistral the sea stays calm. Winds from south-west to south-east bring waves. North-westerly breezes are popular with windsurfers.
This is one of the best-equipped beaches in Capoliveri: beach clubs with umbrellas and sunbeds, bars and restaurants, a boat lane, canoe, kayak, pedalo and sailing-boat hire, a windsurfing school and a diving centre. There is a defibrillator on the beach. For somewhere quieter, Felciaio, Norsi and Acquarilli are close by.
Acquarilli beach lies on Elba's south coast, on the eastern side of the Golfo Stella between Lacona and Lido di Capoliveri, below a headland covered in scrub. About 220 metres long, it is made of dark sand and black pebbles that contrast with the very clear water. A 2015 municipal resolution reserves it for naturism: it is the only beach on Elba where naturism is officially permitted.
Take provincial road 30 from Capoliveri towards Lacona for about 7 km, past the signs for Norsi, to the signposted headland. Next to the road there is an unpaved paid car park with around twenty spaces, and you can also park along the roadside. From there a short but steep path, on the right as you face the sea, drops about 100 metres: allow around ten minutes. It is not suitable for pushchairs or anyone with limited mobility.
The bay is sheltered from northerly winds: with tramontana (north wind), grecale (north-east wind) and mistral the sea is usually calm and clear. Southerly winds hit it head-on.
The only refreshment point is a bar by the car park, which also hosts music evenings. Bring water, food and an umbrella, and wear proper shoes for the path. The rocky seabed and clear water are good for snorkelling, and the view reaches Montecristo and, on the clearest days, Corsica. If naturism is not for you, nearby Norsi and Felciaio are good alternatives.
The Sassi Neri cove lies on the eastern coast of the Capoliveri promontory, along the Costa dei Gabbiani between Straccoligno and Ginevro. Rather than one beach, it is a group of three tiny coves of dark gravel, each a few metres long, formed largely from the waste of the old Sassi Neri mine, one of the three iron mines of Monte Calamita. Behind them, the magnetite shaft abandoned in the 1980s filled with water, creating a small lake.
It is one of Capoliveri's hardest beaches to reach, so it sees few visitors. The easiest way is by sea, by kayak or boat, starting for example from Calanova. On land the route follows the private road of the Costa dei Gabbiani holiday village and ends on a rough path: sources disagree on whether you can pass without a permit, so check first. On foot, start from the paid car park at Calanova, reached from Capoliveri via the signs for Straccoligno.
The coast faces east and is exposed to easterly winds: with levante (east wind) and grecale (north-east wind) the sea gets up and landing a kayak is not advisable. Calm days are best.
There are no facilities: bring water, food, shade and water shoes. The seabed of dark gravel and rocks is good for snorkelling. Mining here stopped around 1980: to learn more, book a guided tour of the Ginevro mine, the only underground mine open to visitors on the island, starting from the Old Workshop Museum.
Capoliveri is located in the south-eastern part of Elba, on a hill 167 m high, dominating the Gulf of Mola to the east and the Gulf of Stella to the south-west. The town is 17 km from Portoferraio and can be reached in about 25 minutes by car from the port.
All the types of tourist activities available in the municipality of Capoliveri. Between the old village, coastal hamlets (Lacona, Naregno, Morcone) and the Calamita hinterland, the offer is wide and varied.
Everything you need to plan your visit: connections, distances, postcode, best time of year and useful numbers.
Every municipality on Elba has its own identity. After Capoliveri and its Aleatico, discover the Medicean capital, the mountain villages, the Marciana Marina coast and the Etruscan mines of Rio.
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