Imposing Pisan fortress dating from the 11th century, erected on a hilltop with magnificent view of Portoferraio Gulf. Considered the most imposing and fascinating bastion of Elba.
Portoferraio, the capital
of Elba Island
The main town of Elba Island: a historic port, a Medici town founded by Cosimo I in 1548 and Napoleon's residence in 1814-1815. Fortresses, museums and some of the most beautiful beaches in the Mediterranean.
A fortress town,
a Mediterranean capital
Portoferraio is the administrative, historic and commercial heart of Elba Island. With about 11,748 inhabitants and an area of ~46 km², it is the island's most populous municipality and the main arrival port for ferries from Piombino. Its strategic position in the Tyrrhenian Sea, sheltered by a natural horseshoe-shaped bay, has made it a key hub of Tyrrhenian sea trade since ancient times.
The modern town was born in 1548, when Grand Duke Cosimo I de' Medici, with the consent of Charles V, King of Spain and protector of the Principality of Piombino to which Elba belonged, began building a monumental defensive system: the Medici Fortresses. The new fortress town was named Cosmopoli in honour of the Grand Duke. Architects of the calibre of Giovan Battista Bellucci and later Bernardo Buontalenti designed Forte Falcone, Forte Stella and the Linguella Tower, completed within a few years.
The strength of the defences was put to the test as early as 1553, when the feared Ottoman corsair Dragut tried to storm the town: the forts held without giving way. Portoferraio thus became the symbol of Medici power in the Tyrrhenian and an impregnable stronghold for more than two centuries.
World fame, however, came with Napoleon Bonaparte, who landed here on 4 May 1814 after his first abdication and ruled as Emperor of Elba until 26 February 1815: ten months that are the Emperor's longest stay in a single European residence. His homes, the Palazzina dei Mulini in town and Villa San Martino in the countryside, are now part of the National Museum of the Napoleonic Residences and among the island's most visited sights.
Portoferraio in pictures
A look at the most striking places in the municipality: the Medici fortresses, the lanes of the historic centre, the Napoleonic residences and the beaches of the north coast.
What to see
in Portoferraio
A full day may not be enough to discover the historic centre, the three fortresses, the Napoleonic museums and the Roman archaeological sites. Here are the places not to miss and all the other sights in the municipality.
Built in 1677, it preserves the relics of Saint Cristino. Inside you can admire the original bronze casts of Napoleon's face and hand, taken at Saint Helena just after his death. Headquarters of the historic Misericordia Confraternity.
The Romanesque Church of Santo Stefano alle Trane is the most significant example of religious Romanesque architecture on Elba. Dating from the 12th century, set in countryside, it preserves typical Pisan single-nave structure.
The large historic water reservoir of the Medici citadel, built to ensure water supply during sieges. 16th-century engineering masterpiece, integral part of the fortified system.
The beaches
of Portoferraio
The municipality of Portoferraio is rich in beaches, from the golden sand of the Gulf of Biodola to the white pebbles of Sansone and Capo Bianco. Here are the 20 best-loved ones, all within a 15-20 minute drive from the centre.
Cala dei Frati is a small cove on the north coast of Portoferraio, tucked between Le Ghiaie and Padulella beaches at the foot of a pale cliff. It is about a hundred metres long and only a few metres wide, made of white pebbles and coarse gravel; underwater, stones alternate with brownish rocks and the clarity is remarkable. The sea here lies within the Ghiaie-Scoglietto-Capo Bianco biological protection zone, set up in 1971, where fishing is banned.
Getting there
There is no public access from land: behind the cove there is private property and a cliff about twenty metres high. So you get here by sea, by kayak, SUP or small boat, or from the north-western end of Le Ghiaie by swimming or wading around the headland, with the water at least waist-deep. The nearest parking is the paid car park behind Le Ghiaie.
Which wind to go with
The best days are those with sirocco or a southerly wind, when the sea along this stretch of coast stays calm and clear. With mistral or tramontana (north wind) the cove is exposed, and swimming or paddling there is not a good idea.
Facilities and tips
There are no facilities on the beach: bars, rentals and a lido are at Le Ghiaie. Bring water and the essentials in a dry bag and go in the morning, because the cove falls into shade early in the afternoon. Snorkelling along the rocks is rewarding, but keep away from the rock face, which is prone to small rockfalls.
Magazzini beach lies on the south-eastern side of the Gulf of Portoferraio, right opposite the town, about 8 km east of the centre. It is a long, narrow strip of sand mixed with fine shingle, partly shaded by tamarisks, next to a small fishing hamlet with its own little harbour. The shallow water deepens very gradually, revealing the Posidonia seagrass meadows.
Getting there
From Portoferraio, follow the road to Bagnaia: the turn-off for Magazzini is on the left, near Schiopparello. Behind the beach there is a large open area where you can leave the car, and the village is served by the local bus line from Portoferraio.
Which wind to go with
The beach is sheltered from southerly and easterly winds: with sirocco, levante (east wind) or a southerly breeze the sea is calm and clear. It is exposed, on the other hand, to winds from libeccio (south-west wind) round through mistral to tramontana (north wind).
Facilities and tips
Part of the beach is free, part is equipped with umbrellas and sunbeds; in the village you will find a bar-restaurant, a sailing school, a diving centre, boat hire and a jetty for mooring. It is mostly used by locals and families with children. The harbour explains the name, meaning warehouses: salt from the Schiopparello and San Giovanni salt pans was shipped from here. Behind the beach runs the long wall of the La Chiusa estate, where Napoleon stopped before reaching Portoferraio. Nearby are the Romanesque church of Santo Stefano alle Trane and the Volterraio fortress.
Forno is the smallest of the three beaches in the Gulf of Biodola, on the north coast of Portoferraio, next to a small hamlet of pastel-coloured fishermen's houses. It is a cove of fine golden sand, just over a hundred metres long and narrow, facing west towards the coast of Marciana Marina and the bulk of Monte Capanne. The water stays shallow for a long way, ideal for small children.
Getting there
From the Portoferraio-Procchio road, follow the signs for Biodola and turn right before the turn-off for Scaglieri. The road ends at a small square with only a few parking spaces; from there you walk about 200 metres. On 9 September 2025 a cloudburst opened a sinkhole in the road and cut the hamlet off, but the road reopened to traffic on 13 September 2025.
Which wind to go with
The cove is sheltered from most winds: the sea is calm with tramontana (north wind), grecale, levante (east wind) and sirocco. Since it faces west, it is the westerly winds that blow into the gulf and stir up the water.
Facilities and tips
On the beach there is a bar, a restaurant, umbrella and sunbed hire, canoes, kayaks, pedalos and SUP boards, a mooring point and a defibrillator. Parking is scarce, so in high season it pays to arrive early. The big Biodola beach is about 700 metres away and Scaglieri about 400 metres. The most atmospheric moment is sunset, with views over the coast of Marciana Marina and Monte Capanne.
Portoferraio on the map of Elba
Portoferraio lies in the north-central part of Elba Island, naturally sheltered by a horseshoe-shaped bay. The port is the main arrival point for ferries from the mainland.
42.8125 N, 10.3267 E
Interactive map (requires JavaScript)
Where to stay, eat
and what to do in town
All the types of tourism businesses in the municipality of Portoferraio. Click a type to explore the full list: hotels, apartments, restaurants, excursions and sports.
How to get there and useful information
Everything you need to plan your visit: connections, distances, postcode, best time of year and useful numbers.
FAQ about Portoferraio
Discover the other 6 municipalities on the island
Every municipality on Elba has its own identity. After Portoferraio, discover the medieval villages, the wild coastline and the mining lands that complete the mosaic of the seven municipalities.