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In this article
At a glance
Between late August and late September thousands of raptors fly over Elba on their way to Africa. In winter the action moves to the sea and wetlands: gannets, divers, mergansers and herons.
Key spots: the Portoferraio salt pans, Mola, the Marina di Campo river mouth, Capo d'Enfola and the west coast.
Guided outings: Info Park in Portoferraio, tel. +39 0565 908231.
Birdwatching on Elba Island is usually linked to spring or to the September raptor migration. Yet late autumn and winter are a season of their own: the beaches empty out, species that breed in northern Europe arrive along the coast, and the wetlands around Portoferraio and Porto Azzurro become a stopover for herons and waders. Here is where to go, what to expect and how to plan a relaxed off-season break with binoculars in hand.
Why Elba matters to birdwatchers
Elba lies on one of the routes European raptors take to reach Africa. Many follow the Tuscan coast down to the Piombino headland and then cross the sea, riding the thermals over Elba and Pianosa. According to the Tuscan Archipelago National Park, between 2006 and 2016 more than 10,000 raptors were counted on Pianosa and Elba from the second half of August to the second half of September, averaging almost 100 birds a day.
The classic watchpoint is the summit of Monte Serra (422 m, Rio nell'Elba), where the Tuscan Ornithological Centre ran its "Raptor Camp" for years: the 2015 session logged over 1,400 raptors in 25 days. Marsh harriers and honey buzzards make up about 80% of sightings, followed by sparrowhawks and ospreys.
What you can see from November to February
At sea and along the coast
- Northern gannet: white with black wingtips and a wingspan of about 1.80 m, seen from the shore all winter as it plunge-dives.
- Red-throated diver and red-breasted merganser: they winter along Elba's coasts and sometimes come into harbours or close to beaches.
- Great cormorant: a winter visitor in small numbers; the European shag is present all year.
- Audouin's gull: the Park's emblem and the rarest gull in the world, recognisable by its coral-red bill with a dark band.
In the wetlands and the maquis
- Grey herons and little egrets in the old salt pans; flamingos now and then.
- Waders such as green sandpiper and grey plover; water rail in the reed beds.
- Winter visitors in gardens and olive groves: robins and thrushes.
- Prized residents: peregrine falcon on the cliffs of Monte Capanne, Marmora's warbler and Corsican finch at higher altitudes.
Where to go: wetlands and headlands
San Giovanni and Schiopparello salt pans (Portoferraio)
The old salt pans on the eastern side of the bay are the easiest wetland to reach. You watch from the outside with binoculars or a scope: there is no marked trail and some basins are now used for other purposes. Schiopparello is about 3 km from Portoferraio harbour. Place guide: Schiopparello salt pans.
Mola (Porto Azzurro)
A former marsh at the head of the Porto Azzurro gulf, where a freshwater pond has been created with the help of the Park and Legambiente volunteers. A good place to look for water rails and waders.
Marina di Campo plain and river mouth
Behind the beach, around the river mouth, the marsh vegetation attracts freshwater species. Early morning is best, when there are hardly any people about.
Capo d'Enfola and the west coast
Winter seawatching needs high points above the water: the Enfola headland, north-west of Portoferraio, and the coastline between Chiessi, Pomonte and Patresi. Early morning and late afternoon are best for gannets, shags and gulls. For routes, see Elba's trails and paths.
A year on the island
| When | What to look for |
| March–May | Spring migration: sparrowhawks and buzzards from March, marsh harriers from late March, honey buzzards mainly in May; African songbirds. |
| Late August–mid September | Peak of the southbound raptor passage. Monte Serra and the eastern headlands are the places to be. |
| October–November | Last migrants, songbirds along the west coast, first winter visitors in the wetlands. |
| December–February | Gannets, divers, mergansers and cormorants at sea; herons and waders in the salt pans. |
Gear, timing and etiquette
- Binoculars 8x30 or 8x40; a spotting scope helps for seawatching and the salt pans.
- Timing: dawn and late afternoon. Winter light fades early, so aim to be in position by 4 pm.
- Clothing: layers, neutral colours, hiking shoes; northerly and easterly winds on the headlands are common.
- Stay on paths and roads: many wetlands are private or fenced.
- Keep your distance from resting birds: a heron that takes off burns precious energy in winter.
- For guided outings: the National Park Info Park in Portoferraio (+39 0565 908231) or licensed nature and hiking guides.
Planning your stay
The wetlands are concentrated between Portoferraio and Porto Azzurro, while the sea-facing headlands are spread around the island. Public transport runs less often in the off-season, so a car or scooter makes dawn starts much easier: see car and scooter rental. A base in Portoferraio or around the Gulf of Lacona puts every spot in this guide within half an hour: find places open out of season in where to stay on Elba.
In short
Autumn and winter on Elba don't bring September's big numbers, but they offer species you won't see in summer, quiet paths and soft low light. All you need is a pair of binoculars, an early start and a quick check on opening times and access before you set off.